Rise & Dine: The South's Best Breakfast Joints

Whether you’re craving corned beef hash, quail and eggs, or just need a hangover cure—stat—we’ve scoured the South for the best places to get the day started right

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The Southern Agenda: August/September 2014

Goings-on in the South and beyond »

Corn Meets Corn Liquor

By Jed PortmanGood EatsSeptember 16, 2014

Bourbon wouldn’t be bourbon without corn. Literally. American law requires that any whiskey perched alongside the bottles of Maker’s Mark and Buffalo Trace at the liquor store come from a mash that is at least fifty-one percent corn, with a remainder of barley, wheat, or rye. So infusing the flavor of fresh corn into brown liquor made a sort of intuitive sense for Chris Spear, the Frederick, Maryland–based chef and culinary instructor who writes the blog Perfect Little Bites. “At first, I thought I’d just throw some corn into some bourbon and see if I could get the flavor I wanted,” he says. After some trial and error, he added a second step to the process: dosing the whiskey with a little melted butter, which leaves behind a tinge of flavor and a rich, silky texture

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Special Package: Discover Louisiana

Field Guide: Pawpaw

By Jed PortmanGood EatsSeptember 11, 2014

In foraging literature, the pawpaw, a soft, pale-green fruit indigenous to the temperate forests of the eastern United States, is allotted a produce aisle’s worth of flavors, among them mango, banana, pineapple, and melon. “I think it tastes like if you were to make mango and banana cupcakes, and then eat the batter,” says Richard Neal, the chef de cuisine at the Capitol Grille in Nashville. “It’s sweet, and tropical, and super soft.”

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Southern Food Group: Cornbread

By Sara Camp ArnoldGood EatsSeptember 2, 2014

The Southern Foodways Alliance and Garden & Gun decided to rewrite the food pyramid in 2014 by introducing the twelve Southern food groups. Thus far, we’ve covered oysters, gumbo, boudin, fried chicken, barbecue, hot tamales, and greens. This month, sop it all up with a big square of cornbread.

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Better Burger Toppers

By Jed PortmanGood EatsAugust 28, 2014

In his professional life, chef Tim Byres spends an awful lot of time standing over hot embers. Smoke, his five-year-old restaurant in Dallas, takes its name from the smoldering arsenal of cookers out back: a smokehouse, a smoker, and a wood-fueled grill. Even when he’s not on the clock he mans the tongs at home and on family camping trips. This is a man who knows how to grill a burger. And the secret to a great one, he says, isn’t the cuts of beef involved, or how they’re ground. It’s a solid roster of quality homemade condiments. Upgrading to a garden-fresh ketchup or a smoky chile mustard is that extra bit of effort that can take a Labor Day spread from run-of-the-mill to something you’ll still be remembering when the long holiday weekend is long gone.

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Make This Now: Korean-Southern Ribs

By Jed PortmanGood EatsAugust 28, 2014

With all due respect for tradition, there's plenty of room for growth in barbecue, as writer John T. Edge noted when he visited Heirloom Market BBQ on his recent tour of Atlanta’s Korean restaurants. The hybrid dishes on the menu at Heirloom Market—one of two Korean-Southern restaurants that chef Cody Taylor runs with his wife, former pop star Jiyeon Lee—are certainly attention-grabbing: Your grandmother probably didn’t dose her slaw with kimchi, and chances are you’ve never seasoned pork butt with gochujang paste, a fermented slurry of chiles, rice, and soy that's popular on the Korean peninsula. Cooked with love by comfort food enthusiasts from different parts of the world, though, the fare makes perfect sense. The ribs at Heirloom Market benefit from a very literal meeting of cuisines: a Georgia-style dry rub and a sweet, Korean-style barbecue sauce flavored with gochujang and Sprite.

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Video Premiere: Lera Lynn's "Out to Sea"

By Jed PortmanSouthern SoundsAugust 25, 2014

The intimate, quivering twang in Lera Lynn’s vocals might bring to mind another, better known Lynn. But the Nashville-based singer-songwriter is not necessarily a country musician, she says, at least not according to the modern-day definition. “Out to Sea,” from her upcoming album, The Avenues (out September 9), is a track that bears some resemblance to her adopted hometown’s famous honky-tonk laments, carried along by airy harmonies and slide guitar, but it's also kin to the independent sounds of Athens, Georgia, where she cut her teeth.

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The South's Friendliest...Phone Book?

By CJ LotzBelow the LineAugust 20, 2014

The small city of Breaux Bridge, Louisiana, is a community so tight-knit, the phone book lists residents’ nicknames.

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Cocktail Hour: Bourbon Root Beer Float

By Jed PortmanGood EatsAugust 18, 2014

Rob McDaniel met Will Abner for the first time in a field in southwestern Virginia. They were both at Lambstock, shepherd Craig Rogers’s bacchanalian annual gathering of farmers, chefs, bartenders, and other food-and-beverage types. "I was finding wood sorrel and wild shiso in the fields up there. Will just started making cocktails with it. I thought, 'That’s pretty cool,'" says McDaniel, who runs the kitchen at SpringHouse in Alexander City, Alabama. "When I went back to the restaurant, I said to our front-of-house manager, 'We’ve really got to talk to this guy.' He was just slinging drinks then, you know, at some bar that closed at three a.m."

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Stocking a Farm-to-Table Bar

By Jed PortmanGood EatsAugust 14, 2014

At the beginning of the summer, the bartenders at Woodberry Kitchen in Baltimore began to run out of verjus, the tart juice of unripe grapes. At nearly any other bar in the country, a shortage of an ingredient like verjus might mean a gentle shift in the menu. At Woodberry, it meant a complete renovation of the cocktail program.

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